Breed Clownfish | Saltwater Fish

[giannifish]

Hi, I'm currently on day 5 with my 1st batch that I'm prepared to grow. I'm wondering what is a good temperature range for them. I've read others are keeping them at 82 but that seems a little high to me and also, the rotifers are to be kept between 70 and 80 according to the label on mine. Also, do they really need 24 hour light? I would think that they need a rest too. In the wild, they'd have roughly half day and half night. And lastly, I worry that even though I have the airstone turned way down, it looks like they get dragged around alot by the current and seem to want to stick to the top of the front glass where the water goes up a little. I have newspaper wrapped around all sides of their tank,is that ok or does it need to be black? Also, I don't seem to be able to get my algae as dark green as in your pictures. I leave the light on it 24/7. You only add the 20 drops of food at the beginning, right? Any help would be great. I've already learned the hard way about being careful with water changes. I wiped out about 75 3 day olds with my first change, still have about a dozen left.

[davek0819]

I'll try to answer best I could for what worked for me...hope it helps.

My fry tank is around 76 and my grow out tank is more like 74. I culture my rotifers in the unfinished side of the basement without a heater. I didn't want to shock the rotifers when feeding so I keep the temp down. I'm not sure of the rotifer temp, never checked it but I would say low 70's if not a little colder.

The first batch I kept the light on 24 hours for the fist week. After that I went with the 16 hours of light and 8 hours of sleep time. When I set up a new fry tank next to my grow out tank I decided to turn the fry tank off at night, the fry just morphed with the same schedule as the first tank when I keep the light on, so I guess in theory it didn't make a difference.

In the fry tank I have the air stone below the heater along the back wall, the heater is turned sideways. From what I read it helps disperse the heat. I noticed the first few days some would move with the current, but at day 5 yours should be swimming pretty good.

I used a black trash bag for the sides of my tank, but remove it at day 6. In my failed attempt on the second batch I did not use a side cover and set it up using my culture station for light. Since the light came from the side, not the top the fry I had stayed at the back wall looking towards the light and did not move around very much. If your fry swam around the first few day, middle of the tank, I would think the newspaper was ok, if they spent alot of time at the side, because of light reflecting I would say go with black the next time. You should be ready to open up the sides so I would think it wouldn't matter at this time.

Mixing up my culture medium for the algae I use 40 drops of food and have a timer on the light 16 hours on 8 hours off.

Water changes - I did alot of water changes on my first fry tank, the current tank I only change the water once and will do another water change later today. For the first few days I went with co-cultureing the tank and did a water change after I stopped.Keep an eye on your ammonia levels., but when in doubt I would do the water change.

[giannifish]

Thanks for the info, I'm counting at least 8 fry left on day 7 and will hopefully do better next batch. I'm wondering if it would be ok to put the next batch in with the survivors from the last time? I have both rotifers and baby brine shrimp living in the 3 gallon tank with them. Is it ok to have them always available? My ammonia is 0. Thanks again.

[davek0819]

I ended up running two tanks, one for the new fry and one as a grow out tank. For the fry tank I cultured rotifers with the fry by adding photoplankton. As the fry approached day nine, metamorphosis, I stopped adding photoplankton, I guess in my mind, to help with the water quality. When it came time for the next batch of eggs, I moved the morphed clowns into the grow out tank and put the new fry into the fry tank.

If your not adding photoplankton to the water, to feed the rotifers, it should help with the water quality for the morphed clowns. Keep an eye on your rotifers though, since your older clowns know how the find food instead of stumbling across it.

I would stick with the rotifers, but I was reluctant with the brine shrimp. In the beginning the fry can only eat brine that are two / three days old. After that they get to big. Joyce Wilkerson wrote about how often the brine shead their shells as the grow, they might start to pollute your tank with shell casings and ammonia. I ended up making my own brine shrimp culture station using two 2 liter soda bottles. Cut the first one a little over two thirds up from the bottom, this will be your base. Cut the second right before where it starts to curve at the bottom, this will be for your cultureing water. Put the cap on the second bottle and place cap side down into the base, I used duct tape to hold the culturing bottle into the base. I use a rigid tube, connected to the air pump with flexible tube to get the air to bubble from the bottom, inside the cap. A air stone might work. I turkey baste the brine shimp and water from the culture station into a screen to prevent the water culturing the brine to enter the fry tank. I have two running, since the brine take 24 hours to hatch I start a new culture every two days to have newly hatched brine on hand. I only hatch about 2 tablespoons at a time, I think I get around 4 hatches per bag.

Great job so far, the nice part is the clowns give you second chances every two weeks.

[MarCoch]

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